20 and 30 Volume Developer to Lighten Hair: Which Works Best for You? (2025)

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When choosing between 20 and 30 volume developer to lighten hair, think of it like picking between a gentle jog and a sprint.

The 20 volume gives you 1-2 levels of lift – perfect for subtle changes without wrecking your strands.

Meanwhile, 30 volume works faster with 2-3 levels of lift, but it’s more like playing with fire on your scalp.

Your hair’s porosity matters too; highly porous hair will soak up developer like a sponge.

Remember to check your progress every 5-10 minutes – those orange tones can sneak up faster than you’d think, and it’s crucial to avoid unwanted results by monitoring the lifting process closely.

Understanding Hair Porosity

Your hair’s porosity affects how quickly it’ll absorb developer and bleach, making it a key factor to check before you start your lightening journey.

You can easily test your hair’s porosity at home by dropping a strand in water and watching if it sinks quickly (high porosity), floats in the middle (normal porosity), or stays on top (low porosity).

What is Hair Porosity?

Your hair porosity is like your hair’s personal ID card – it determines how your strands interact with everything from moisture to hair color products.

Your hair porosity is your strands’ personal ID card—it determines how they’ll interact with everything from moisture to color.

Think of porosity as your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and chemicals.

Understanding your hair porosity level is vital for preventing damage and achieving desired results when lightening.

It helps you choose between 20 and 30 volume developers based on how your hair will actually respond, not just what color you want, considering the ability to absorb and the potential for further damage.

This knowledge is key to preventing damage and ensuring your hair receives the right treatment for its specific porosity needs.

Hair Porosity Test

Now that you understand what hair porosity is, let’s figure out yours with a simple test.

The Float Test is the easiest way to check your hair porosity levels. Here’s how:

Porosity Levels Behavior What It Means

Can’t wait for water to dry? Try the Spray Bottle method for quick Strand Assessment. Just mist clean hair and watch—does it bead up (low porosity) or disappear (high)?

Visual Inspection works too! Smooth, shiny hair usually indicates low porosity, while frizzy, dull strands suggest high porosity. Understanding your hair’s porosity helps in selecting appropriate products, because genetics affect porosity.

Choosing The Right Developer

You’ll need to pick the right developer strength for your hair lightening journey, just like choosing the right tool for any job.

The difference between 20 and 30 volume can mean the difference between subtly sun-kissed strands and a dramatic transformation that’ll make your friends do a double-take.

Differences Between 20 and 30 Volume Developer

The developer decision-making dilemma comes down to understanding lifting power and damage potential when choosing between 20 and 30 volume options.

The volume developer choice isn’t just about strength—it’s the balance between transformation power and protecting your precious strands.

1. Lifting Power: 20 volume developer provides gentler color deposit with 1-2 levels of lift, while 30 volume developer delivers more dramatic results with 2-3 levels of lightening.
2. Processing Time: Think of 20 volume as the scenic route—it works more gradually but with less damage. 30 volume is the express lane—faster results but requires constant monitoring.
3. Hair Type Considerations: Fine or damaged hair? Stick with 20 volume. Resistant or very dark hair? 30 volume might be your answer.
4. Developer Strength Trade-offs: Higher developer levels mean faster results but increased damage potential. Remember, your hair’s porosity affects how quickly it processes—high porosity hair absorbs developer faster, so adjust accordingly. To achieve the best results, opening hair cuticles is essential for color penetration.

Choose your developer strength wisely based on your lightening goals!

What to Use Instead of Drugstore Box Dye

While 20 and 30 volume developers each have their merits, what you mix them with matters just as much.

Ditch those drugstore box dyes! They’re notorious for uneven results and unnecessary damage.

Instead, invest in salon-quality dyes like Wella, Redken, or Schwarzkopf that offer custom formulations with superior ingredient quality.

Professional products contain conditioning agents that minimize damage during hair lightening. Your stylist can recommend the perfect combination based on your hair type—whether you need gentle 20 volume for fine strands or stronger 30 volume for stubborn color.

For the health-conscious, try demi-permanent options that deposit color without harsh chemicals. Your hair’s future self will thank you!

How to Bleach Your Hair

You’ll need to properly prepare and section your hair before mixing your chosen developer with bleach powder for that dramatic color transformation.

When you apply the mixture starting from the back sections and ending with your roots, you’re setting yourself up for the even, professional-looking results.

This approach helps ensure that you won’t leave you looking like you stuck your finger in an electrical socket, achieving a more professional-looking finish.

Preparing Your Hair for Bleaching

Before diving into the bleaching process, proper preparation makes all the difference between damaged hair and stunning results.

Now that you’ve selected your developer, let’s get your strands ready for their transformation.

Using a specialized hair product can improve results.

Remember: always bleach completely dry hair for even results!

Sectioning Your Hair for Even Application

Before diving into the bleaching process, proper sectioning is your secret weapon for flawless results. Divide your hair into four distinct sections—create a middle part from forehead to nape, then make a horizontal division above each ear. Secure each section with sturdy clips for maximum control during application.

This strategic hair partitioning prevents overlap and guarantees even distribution of product. Always work from back sections forward, as the nape area processes slower than front strands. Even color distribution is a key benefit of this technique.

Think of sectioning patterns as your roadmap to perfection—neat divisions mean more precise application. Essential tools include a tail comb for clean partitioning and sectioning clips that won’t slip during the process. Proper sectioning is crucial for achieving flawless results and ensuring that your hair receives an even application of the product, which is key to a successful hair coloring process.

Applying The Bleach

Grab your tint brush and let’s tackle bleach application with confidence. Creating the perfect bleach mixture is essential for even results.

Apply to small, manageable sections starting about an inch away from your scalp, as natural heat accelerates processing time.

• Mix bleach to a yogurt-like consistency for ideal control and even distribution
• Work methodically from back to front, avoiding overlap on previously applied sections
• Save roots for last—they process faster due to scalp heat (I learned this the hard way!)

For superior results, consider specific product options.

For safer at-home bleaching, stick with 20 volume developer instead of the more aggressive 30 volume. Your hair will thank you for the gentler approach while still achieving that lighter look you’re after.

Timing and Monitoring The Lightening Process

You’ll need to watch your hair like a hawk during the lightening process, as timing can make the difference between gorgeous blonde locks and a fried mess.

Your careful monitoring will help catch that perfect shade before your strands throw a chemical tantrum.

You should be aware that timing is crucial in this process.

How Long to Leave The Bleach On

Timing your bleach application correctly can make the difference between gorgeous locks and a hair disaster. The clock starts ticking the moment developer meets bleach!

Developer Strength	Processing Time	Best For
20 Volume (6%)	30-45 minutes	Gentle lift, beginners
30 Volume (9%)	20-30 minutes	Faster results, darker hair
Roots	15-20 minutes	Apply last due to scalp heat
Virgin Hair	30 minutes max	First-time bleaching
Previously Dyed	15-25 minutes	Varies by hair history

Remember, a strand test beforehand saves you from guessing your hair lightening timing. Never exceed 30 minutes—after that, your bleach stops lifting color and starts damaging strands instead.

Watch for over-processing signs like excessive dryness or stretchy wet strands. When in doubt, use a color chart to track your progress through the developer processing time.

Monitoring The Color Change

The careful monitoring of your hair’s color change is essential for successful lightening.

Check your hair every 10-15 minutes against a color chart to track progress through different stages—from orange to pale yellow.

Remember, damaged sections will lighten faster due to higher porosity.

Regular visual assessment helps prevent over-processing and guarantees you stop at the right moment.

By understanding hair lightening levels and recognizing when to neutralize unwanted tones, you’ll achieve your desired shade without any bleach-related surprises.

Many people use natural hair lighteners for a gentler approach.

Achieving The Desired Result

You’ll know you’ve achieved your dream shade when your hair reaches the right level on the color chart, much like waiting for a cake to bake to golden perfection.

Your choice between 20 and 30 volume developer directly affects how quickly and effectively you’ll get there, so patience during monitoring pays off with results that won’t make you reach for a hat.

Understanding The Lightening Process

Watching your developer transform your dark locks is like witnessing chemistry in action.

The lightening process follows a predictable color journey as the developer activates and opens your hair cuticle.

Here’s what happens during melanin oxidation:

1. Dark brown/black → deeper red (level 1-2 lift)
2. Red → copper/orange (level 3-4 lift)
3. Orange → brassy yellow (level 5-6 lift)
4. Yellow → pale yellow/platinum (level 7-8 lift)

Your 20 volume developer takes this journey slowly, while 30 volume races through—sometimes too quickly for your hair’s good!

Dealing With Orange Tones

Understanding how color works doesn’t help much when you’re staring at orange hair in the mirror. Don’t panic – those brassy tones happen when your hair stops at the orange stage of lightening.

For mild brassiness, purple shampoo works wonders. For darker orange, reach for blue toner – it’s your best neutralizing orange partner. Simply apply following package directions.

For stubborn cases, a gentle bleach bath with 20 volume developer might be needed. The 30 volume developer delivers stronger correction but increases damage risk. Many turn to toners for orange hair to correct this issue.

Always do a strand test first! Proper toner selection and aftercare routine prevent brassiness from returning.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)