Hair Type Classification: Systems, Texture & Porosity Guide (2025)

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Your hair doesn’t fit into neat boxes, and that’s precisely why trichologists developed multiple classification systems. The Andre Walker system revolutionized haircare by dividing strands into four primary types, but it’s just one lens for viewing the complex architecture of human hair.

Your curl pattern tells part of the story—texture, porosity, and density complete it. Most people misidentify their hair type because they’re looking at the wrong variables or relying on products that temporarily alter their natural structure.

Understanding these classification frameworks transforms your approach from guessing what might work to diagnosing what will work, based on your hair’s actual biological characteristics.

Hair Type Classification Systems

Understanding your hair starts with knowing which classification system to use. The two most recognized frameworks are the Andre Walker System and the L’Oréal Curl Meter, though other methods exist to help you identify your specific type.

Each system approaches hair differently, giving you multiple ways to pinpoint exactly what you’re working with.

Andre Walker Hair Typing System

Introduced in 1999 by celebrity stylist Andre Walker, this classification system revolutionized how we grasp hair by breaking down the complexity of curls into four primary types—straight, wavy, curly, and coily—each with subcategories that capture the nuances of diameter and pattern.

This hair typing framework helps you select products customized to your curl patterns and hair texture, though it’s just one piece of understanding your complete hair porosity and classification profile.

L’Oréal Curl Meter System

While the Andre Walker System maps hair into four foundational types, the L’Oréal Curl Meter System takes a more quantitative approach by measuring curl diameter with precision instruments. This gives researchers and product developers exact numerical data to work with instead of relying on visual assessment alone.

This hair curve analysis uses specialized curl meter tools to capture precise measurements of your curl pattern, translating your hair texture into mathematical values that inform L’Oréal products formulation.

You’ll benefit from this quantitative classification because it removes guesswork, providing standardized data that considers both curl diameter measurement and hair porosity levels for truly personalized care.

Other Popular Classification Methods

Beyond L’Oréal’s measurement tools, you’ll find several hair type classification frameworks that challenge traditional curl-based systems. The LOIS Method examines strand patterns as L-shaped angles, O-shaped coils, I-shaped flat sections, or S-shaped bends, focusing on geometric characteristics rather than ethnicity. Fia’s System combines curl definition with strand thickness and texture, allowing multidimensional hair classification.

Geometric Systems use curve diameter and curl index for objectified grouping, while Materials Science approaches like Gaines-Page apply contour length ratios through microscopy. The Irizarry Scale introduces quantitative survey methods, revealing that individuals often struggle with self-assigning hair texture in tightly coiled categories.

Understanding hair typing systems is essential for determining the best hair care methods.

Key Hair Type Categories

Now that you understand the classification systems, let’s break down what each hair type actually looks like.

The four main categories—straight, wavy, curly, and coily—form the backbone of hair typing, and recognizing where your hair fits unlocks everything from product choices to styling techniques.

Here’s what sets each type apart.

Type 1 (Straight Hair)

Type 1 hair is the straightest of all hair types, drying without any natural bends, waves, or curls along the shaft. This hair texture lies completely flat against your scalp, reflecting light exceptionally well due to its smooth cuticle structure.

For straight hair care, avoid heavy serums that weigh down fine hair tips, and consider dry shampoo for oil management in your hair straightening routine.

Type 2 (Wavy Hair)

Your hair forms that distinctive ‘S’ shape as it dries—a natural bend that falls somewhere between the sleek flatness of straight strands and the spiraled coils of truly curly hair.

Type 2 wavy hair breaks down into three subcategories: 2A features loose wave patterns with fine texture, 2B shows more defined S wave texture with moderate body, and 2C displays tighter waves approaching curl territory.

Understanding your hair porosity matters here—wavy hair products should amplify your natural hair wave patterns without weighing down movement or creating frizz.

Type 3 (Curly Hair)

When you brush through those loops and spirals—feeling them spring back against your fingers—you’re touching the essence of Type 3 curly hair, where defined curl patterns become your natural signature.

This hair type forms distinct loops and spirals, classified into three subcategories based on curl tightness: 3A shows loose, wide curls; 3B features springy, medium-diameter ringlets; and 3C displays tight, corkscrew coils.

Your hair texture and density influence how you approach curly hair care—moisture-rich products amplify curl definition without disrupting your natural curl pattern.

Type 4 (Coily Hair)

Coily hair—those tight, zigzagging strands that defy gravity and shrink up to 75% of their actual length—represents the most textured classification in the hair typing spectrum, demanding specialized understanding of its unique structural characteristics.

Coily texture tips emphasize hydration—your hair porosity and density determine which afro hair styling techniques work best for maintaining defined coils without breakage.

Hair Texture and Thickness Classification

Beyond curl pattern alone, your hair’s texture and thickness shape how it behaves and what it needs. These characteristics work hand-in-hand with your type number to give you the full picture.

Here’s how to identify where your strands fall on the texture spectrum.

Fine, Medium, and Coarse Hair Types

Beyond the visible curl pattern that defines your hair type, there’s an equally important dimension hiding in plain sight—the actual diameter of each individual strand.

Hair Texture Analysis breaks down into three distinct classifications: fine hair (Type A), which feels almost imperceptible when rolled between your fingers; medium hair (Type B), offering slight resistance to touch; and coarse hair (Type C), providing substantial tactile feedback.

This Hair Thickness Measurement fundamentally shapes how your strands respond to styling products and environmental factors.

Assessing Hair Texture by Touch

The simplest diagnostic tool for determining your hair’s texture lives at the tip of your fingers—no microscope required. This Tactile Assessment, known as the Hair Feel Test, relies on sensory feedback rather than visual inspection.

Here’s your three-step Texture Analysis protocol:

1. Isolate a single strand from your scalp, preferably one that’s recently shed
2. Roll the strand firmly between your thumb and forefinger, noting resistance
3. Evaluate the sensation: imperceptible equals fine (Type A), slight resistance indicates medium (Type B), substantial feedback confirms coarse (Type C)

This Strand Evaluation method accurately determines hair texture regardless of your curl pattern or hair density.

Rolling Strand Method for Texture

You’ve likely performed the basic touch test, but mastering the Rolling Strand Method transforms that simple motion into a precise diagnostic technique.

Apply consistent pressure as you execute the Finger Roll—coarse strands (Type C) create noticeable friction and resistance, while fine hair (Type A) nearly disappears between your fingertips.

This Strand Test remains your most reliable tool for Texture Classification, cutting through the confusion of Hair Porosity and Density variables that often complicate Hair Type Classification.

Understanding Hair Density and Porosity

Density and porosity aren’t just technical terms—they’re the keys to understanding how your hair actually behaves. Measuring these traits gives you a clearer picture of what products work and why some styling techniques fall flat.

Let’s break down how to assess each one and what they reveal about your hair’s true nature.

Measuring Hair Density

Density determines how many hair strands grow per square inch of your scalp, and measuring it reveals whether you’re working with a sparse canvas or a lush forest. The Ponytail Method offers a quick circumference test—gather your hair and measure around:

• Less than 2 inches indicates low density, sparse strand count
• 2-3 inches signals medium density, moderate hair volume
• 4+ inches confirms high density, abundant hair formation
• Part hair with a comb to visually assess scalp visibility for density measurement

Determining Hair Porosity

Porosity measures your hair’s thirst—how readily each strand opens up to drink in moisture or stubbornly keeps it locked out. The Float Test reveals water absorption patterns: drop a clean strand in a glass and watch.

If it sinks quickly, your hair cuticles are highly porous, greedily accepting product penetration. If it floats stubbornly, you’re dealing with low porosity that resists moisture—critical intel for your hair type classification system.

Impact of Density and Porosity on Classification

Understanding both density and porosity transforms your hair type classification system from surface-level guesswork into diagnostic precision. High-density, low-porosity hair creates fuller, shinier appearances—classic straight or wavy profiles—while low-density, high-porosity strands appear thinner with compromised frizz control and curl definition.

Your hair health depends on recognizing this interplay: environmental wear raises porosity levels over time, regardless of native hair texture and formation, while age decreases density approximately 0.33 hairs/cm² annually—making elasticity assessment and individualized care protocols non-negotiable.

Hair ages naturally—environmental damage increases porosity while density drops 0.33 hairs/cm² yearly, demanding tailored care beyond basic texture typing

To better manage hair, consider learning about hair porosity types to create a tailored hair care regimen.

Practical Tips for Identifying Your Hair Type

Identifying your hair type doesn’t have to feel like guesswork. You’ll need a few simple methods to assess your curl pattern, texture, and density with accuracy.

Here’s how to avoid common classification errors and get a clear picture of what you’re really working with.

Using Hair Type Charts and Guides

Hair type charts can be your quickest path to understanding what’s actually happening on your head, cutting through the confusion when mirror glances and finger tests leave you second-guessing. Most hair type classification systems include visual guides showing curl pattern analysis from straight to coily textures, paired with texture assessment tools that help you identify fine, medium, or coarse strands and porosity testing methods to determine moisture absorption.

Analyzing Curl Patterns and Thickness

Curl patterns don’t exist in isolation—they’re intrinsically linked to strand thickness, and reading both together reveals the complete story of your hair’s characteristics, moisture needs, and styling potential. When you’re analyzing curl pattern and hair texture simultaneously, you’ll notice how fine coils need lighter products than coarse waves, even though their curl definition appears worlds apart.

Key observation points for accurate texture variation assessment:

• Watch how your hair dries naturally—tight curl patterns with fine texture create delicate spirals, while coarse strands form sturdy, defined shapes with better frizz control
• Test hair elasticity by gently stretching a strand; thicker hair resists more, directly affecting how curl definition holds throughout the day
• Note moisture absorption speed—fine curls drink up product quickly, coarse hair takes longer, regardless of hair type classification

Common Mistakes in Hair Type Classification

Visual Bias leads classification errors every time you judge hair type under product influence or styled conditions. Product influence distorts natural texture characteristics, making hair texture characteristics appear different than they actually are.

Studies reveal curl overlap across systems, with identical samples fitting multiple categories due to inconsistent measurement standards.

Porosity issues complicate understanding hair types further—high porosity often stems from damage, not curl pattern alone, yet most charts ignore this structural factor entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)